Having a birthday at Equinox time is always special, especially when you’re lucky enough, as I am, to live in sight of one of the most wonderful ancient sites associated with this changing of the seasons.
My birthday is the 21st, and sometimes the Equinox falls on that date although this year, the Autumnal Equinox was the 23rd of September. In the case of Cairn T on Sliabh na Caillí, the light that enters the chamber on both equinoxes, does its magic a few days each side of the actual date.
I nearly went up for my birthday this year, especially as it was a BIG roundy one. Hard to believe I’m 60 but in comparison to this ancient monument, I’m only a wee baby! The 21st however, was dull and misty so I waited till the 23rd and I’m certainly glad I did!
Myself and my daughter left the house about 6.45am for the short drive to the cairn carpark, which was pretty full. We headed up the ancient trail, following in the path of so many before us, marking the passage of dark to light. There was an ethereal mist covering the undulating countryside but up where we were, it was mostly clear, save distant low clouds. We knew, this would be a good one!!
There was a quite a crowd, from young to old, locals to tourists to those who came in spiritual homage as well as the curious and awe struck first timers. Sounds of harpists, bodhrán players and instruments akin to ancient people echoed across the onlookers and over by Cairn V, a group of women began the ritual, spoken in Irish, and calling on our ancient Goddesses to bring peace and harmony. As the glow of the hidden sun began to show its presence, flame throwers weaved a spiraled dance of swirling fire and you could really feel the anticipation, the hope and almost the dread, as though the sun might just change its mind decide to disappear back to the shadows of night. But it didn’t disappoint and as the glow of golden edged cloud revealed the burning ball of light, the cries and songs and chants built to a crescendo.
Now, one thing I haven’t really mentioned too much here is the cairn itself. Approximately 5,500 years old, it has weathered many a storm but now, it is finally and unfortunately deemed too unstable to allow us to enter the chamber and witness the true magic, the light slowly entering the passage to light up the back stone, filled with mysterious abstract symbols, perhaps depicting the sun, crops, water. No one is sure of their true meaning but whatever it is, one thing is clear, this place was of profound importance to an ancient people who relied on the turn of the seasons to plant and harvest.
I have been lucky enough in the past to witness this amazing event but funny, even though we could not gain entry, my experience certainly wasn’t diminished as the sun itself became the focus of my attention and wonder, just as it had been for our ancestors so long ago. As the sun began its upward journey, we visited the Cailleach’s chair, associated with the sovereign deity, a Goddess crone who is said to have formed the cairns from rocks falling from her apron.
And then just as quick, life returned to normal. Myself and my daughter headed back down the hill to head home, but not before we popped into the Loughcrew Megalithic Centre coffee shop for well-earned tea/hot chocolate and scones!
